Author: judycoutinho

Metsovo

Metsovo

Metsovo FolkLore Museum

We arrived in Metsovo just as the rain started to fall so we repaired to a nearby restaurant for a delicious bean soup. Unfortunately by the time we finished our meal the heavens had opened completely. Undaunted, we continued uphill and found this wonderful museum. It was definitely worth getting wet for.

Metsovo is a beautiful town in the Pindos mountains and is often called ‘The Jewel of Epirus’. It is a Vlach town, a people who are historically nomadic shepherds who’ve lived in the region for generations and whose origins are from neighbouring Balkan countries.

With a population of shepherds it is only natural that Metsovo would have a culture of weaving. The textiles are utilitarian and are used as household furnishings, blankets, carpets, cushions, all heavily decorated in colorful designs that have spiritual and cultural significance. Other products of the village include the colorful embroidered traditional costumes, including the flokata, a black sleeveless coat or vest with a red band that identified the people from Metsovo during the Ottoman period.

We had our own individual tour round the old house in which the museum is situated. It was owned by a Swiss banker Tositsa who’s family came from the town. The guide told us that the winters were so harsh that the family had to spend seven months of the year inside the house and so had to store enough food to last them throughout the winter.

Here is a link to the Folklore Museum where you can see photographs www.metsovomuseum.gr

Meteora

The monasteries of Meteora are an amazing sight. There are now six monasteries which are still inhabited. We visited two, the Great Meteora built in 1382 and the Varlaam built in 1517. We set off early in the morning and walked there up a stone path accompanied by a local dog who decided to act as our guide. Once the monastery opened at 9am we then had to ascend a further 300 steps to the main door. Until the road was built the monks reached the monastery by clambering into a net attached to a pulley and were winched up. This was powered by other monks manually turning the wheel (see pictures below).

The churches inside the monasteries were extremely beautiful, the walls and ceilings being completely covered in frescos.

Some of the rooms that could be visited included the old cellars and kitchens.

The monasteries had little museums and these photos come from them. The last is a poster from WWII when the Greeks were fighting off the Italian invasion.

The monasteries are a major tourist attraction and throughout the day coaches arrive with day trippers from all over the world.

Jews in Thessaloniki

In memory of the Jewish Greeks of Thessaloniki

There has been a Jewish community in Thessaloniki for over 2,000 years. But after the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492 by Ferdinand and Isabella many more Sephardic Jews settled in Thessaloniki (Salonica) significantly increasing the Jewish population. Other Jews emigrated from elsewhere in southern Europe and by the 16 century over 50% of the city’s population were Jewish. 

At the beginning of WWII the Jewish population of the city numbered 50,000 (just over one fifth of the population). In 1942 the Nazis destroyed the Jewish cemetery with more than 500,000 tombs. In the spring of 1943 the Jewish population were rounded up and on March 15th the first convoy of Jewish Greeks left Thessaloniki bound for Poland. In 1945 only 1,950 retuned. 96% were murdered in the concentration camps. 

The plaque on the powerful statue reads:

“Dedicated by the Greek people to the memory of the 50,000 Jewish Greeks of Thessaloniki, deported from their mother city by the Nazi occupation forces in the spring of 1943 and exterminated in the gas chambers of the Auschwitz/ Birkenau death camps”

Jewish Museum

The Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki was founded to honour the rich and creative Sephardic heritage as it evolved in the city after the 15th century. It is housed in one of the rare Jewish buildings that survived the fire of 1917. It is great that the city has this museum and the exhibitions provide detail of the Sephardic way of life which existed.

Thessaloniki

Sculptures

Every street you walk down has sculptures and in beautiful locations – by the sea, in squares etc. The first below is the memorial to the Jewish Greeks, the three following relate to Alexandra the Great, the fifth had no plaque but is very powerful and the last ‘Umbrellas’ was placed in 1997 when the city was the European Capital of Culture. I found an App called ‘Strolling around Thessaloniki’ which details many of the sculptures and other sights in the city.

Museum of Archeology

The Archeology museum had some very interesting collections. The photographs below come from ‘The Gold of Macedon’ tracing the use of gold through the ages, most of the artefacts coming from tombs.

Folk Art and Ethnological Museum

This museum is housed in a beautiful old building known as Villa Modiano built in 1906 by the architect Eli Modiano for the banker Jacob Modiano and which survived the great fire of 1917. The collections consist of woven textiles, embroidery, tools etc, plus replicas of the equipment and wooden machinery used in mills to grind flour, pound wool (fulling) and even saw planks of wood.

Street scenes

We spent several delightful hours wandering around the market and bazaar area in the city, it was a vibrant area with whole areas dedicated to particular products as in India.

Thessaloniki Camperstop

The official Camperstop in Thessaloníki proved completely unusable. It was full of trucks going in and out but also so steep the levellers kept sliding away!

But then we found this place on Park4night. Right by the sea, fantastic view, just a big space that the flats use for parking. And Valerie made friends with Makis who has his joinery workshop there plus a vegetable garden and arranged, in Greek, for us to stay here.

Hike in Eastern Pelion

We started from our campsite at Papa Nero intending to follow the trail over to Damouchari and then up to Mouresi where we would have lunch. Imagine our surprise on finding that we had reached our lunch goal at 11am. Then we realised that this was only half of the walk and the second part went up to Kissos the other side of the valley and after a quick Google discovered it was the highest village in East Pelion. Never daunted we set off, now doing our ascent in the hotter part of the day … and that’s not all.

I was using a map from Avenza Maps downloaded onto my iPhone which then tracks your progress. Sounds good but the map is a simplified format and the way marked red arrows and dots on rocks and trees only seemed to appear when there were no options. The path went across a large stream, but the stepping stones were submerged. Fortunately neither of us fell in but Valerie did get rather wet feet. Then of course we lost the path. After wandering around following tracks for about an hour we came across the right path again and followed it down to the river crossing. “Oh good a proper bridge” … and then we saw it close up!

But it was a lovely walk with lush vegetation, flowers, ferns, sweet chestnut trees, lovely birdsong and beehives.

By the time we’d had something to eat it was about 4:30 so we decided to get a taxi back. My iPhone thought I’d climbed 187 flights of stairs!!