In Los Angeles we picked up the RV (motorhome) and arrived at our first stop, Santa Barbara, in early evening. The next day we walked along the beach, passing lots of sailing boats moored there until we reached the town centre. We then walked up the very pretty main street of Santa Barbara, State Street. It’s a pedestrian street with lots of palm trees, restaurants and interesting little shops. We had delicious empanadas in a Mexican restaurant and then visited the famous court house, which is still in use as a court house but is open to visitors. The building is in Spanish Colonial style and was completed in 1929 after the previous courthouse was completely destroyed in the 1925 earthquake. Like many of the buildings in Santa Barbara it has red tiled roofs, white stucco walls and various balconies. Inside it is gorgeous, with terracotta floor tiles, ceramic tiled walls and lots of interesting paintings showing historical scenes. It also has the amazing Mural Room featuring scenes from Santa Barbara’s history. It is such a beautiful building that it is frequently used for weddings – including that of US Vice President Kamala Harris -and a wedding was taking place in the garden on the day we were there.
Entrance to courthouseWeddingMural roomPresidio neighbourhoodon the street
Monday 27 May was a public holiday in the US – Memorial Day – when the country honours US military personnel who died while serving in the United States Armed Services. It was a beautiful, sunny day (though the wind was chilly) and everyone was out enjoying themselves. Our cousins first took us to one of their favourite eating places, Brents – a famous family run Jewish deli and restaurant which has become one of the best delicatessens in the state. The place was packed with families enjoying their day off and we left feeling very replete.
We then drove to Santa Monica, a coastal town (or “city” as they call it in the US) west of downtown Los Angeles. It too was buzzing. We strolled along a delightful pedestrian street called 3rd Street Promenade and noticed lots of brightly coloured wooden rocking chairs (we discovered these are called Adirondack chairs) just sitting on the pavement for people to use. Then we walked to Santa Monica’s wide, sandy beach for our first sight of the Pacific ocean. Interestingly Santa Monica is the western end of the famous Route 66.
We were very excited to discover that the Dinner Party, that wonderful creation by Judy Chicago in the 70s was housed in the Brooklyn Museum. The subway in New York is great and we easily found our way down to Brooklyn and to the museum. Here are the photos (if you click on a photo it will expand to full size)
So many images that are so familiar from films (click on images to enlarge)
Car parking in New York
I found these a strange sight but you see loads of them in New York – vertical car parks. The cars go up and down.
BagelsBagelsGrand Central stationCannabis is legal hereFamous Knish BakeryInside the bakerysavoury and sweet knish
Knish is a traditional Ashkenazi Jewish snack food consisting of a filling covered with dough that is typically baked. In most traditional versions the filling is made entirely of mashed potato, kasha (buckwheat) or cheese. Schimmel’s also sell them filled with beef,chicken, sweet potatoes, black beans, spinach or various sweet fillings including apple strudel (Valerie’s choice).
Cannabis became legal in New York for over 21s in 2021 and there are many shops selling it. But … items on the local news indicate that there has been an increase in people over 65 being admitted to hospital with symptoms relating to smoking ‘weed’ – it’s so much stronger than it was ‘back in the day’!
We found our visit to the tenement museum at 97 Orchard Street in the Lower East Side fascinating. It was home to an estimated 7,000 peoplefrom over 20 nations between 1863 and 1935. The five-story tenement was built with 22 apartments, each consisting of just three rooms, and housing what was often a large family. We had a very good guide who showed us two different apartments, furnished as they would have been at the time. She told us about the lives of the two families:
A Russian Jewish family called the Rogarshevskys who lived in the building in the 1910s and an Italian family, the Baldizzis who lived there in the 1930s . The building was empty from the 1940s but in 1988 it was turned into a museum. The founders of museum advertised in the local press to find people who had lived in the building and managed to track down the daughter of the Baldizzi family and record her memories. We listened to some of the recording which was wonderful to hear.
Afterwards we wandered round the Lower East side and Harriet showed us the site of her father’s store there. She also showed us the famous Jewish knish shop, Yonah Shimmels and Valerie had her first knish.
This is a high level pedestrian highway running north-south through west Manhattan. Originally it was a railway line whose trains carried meat, produce and dairy products into warehouses and factories. Now it’s a walkway with gardens planted amidst the old railway lines, and sculptures along the way. You can walk through gardens, view art, experience a performance, savour delicious food, or connect with friends and neighbours -all while enjoying a unique perspective of New York City.
Harriet is my 2nd cousin – her grandfather and mine were brothers and Ellen is the next generation down. We spent the day down in Greenwich village where Harriet lives, having brunch, looking at family trees, chatting in Washington Square. The park was full of young people in brilliant purple gowns who were celebrating their graduation from New York University.
Washington SquareWashington Arch
We also went to the Grey Art Museum where there was an exhibition of American artists who had gone to Paris after WW2. The GI Bill enacted in 1944 offered ex-servicemen a pathway to college, including an option to study abroad and many American artists took up this possibility.
For our last couple of nights we stayed at a very good French camper stop in the village of Watten (N50.83139, E2.20879). We chose it because it’s only a 40 minute drive to Calais.
We discovered that the neighbouring village, Eperlecques, played a significant role in World War II because the Nazis chose it as the site for the “Blockhaus” (bunker) which was originally intended to be a launching facility for the V2 ballistic missile and a factory for the production of liquid oxygen. It was constructed using thousands of prisoners of war and forcibly conscripted workers.
It was never used because the Allies found out about it and subjected it to heavy bombing including ‘Tall Boy’ bombs which drilled down 30 metres into the ground and created a mini-earthquake. It has been turned into an open air ‘history park’ which provides a lot of information not only about what was going on there, but about World War II.
We walked there not knowing quite what to expect and were astonished to find in the middle of a beautiful forest this enormous, 33 metre high block of concrete and a replica of the 14 metre long V2 rocket. The plan was for 36 of these to be launched each day for three days and the target was England.
what the V2 bomb would have looked like coming to the launch pad
The photographs don’t give a realistic sense of the size of the place and how chilling it is. I found it quite terrifying. Half of it was destroyed, but in the other half the Germans went on to manufacture liquid oxygen which they then used to launch the V2s on mobile launch pads. Over 1,400 V2s were launched on Britain and over 1,600 on Belgium – mainly London and Antwerp. After the war many of the scientists and engineers working on these rockets were invited to the United States to become part of the US space program.
We felt we couldn’t go to Greece and not visit Delphi again as it’s such a magical place. It’s hugely impressive, because of the beautiful location, the height of it, and the sheer number of monuments, even though many are just the pedestals of statues, and you have to imagine what they would’ve looked like with their enormous statues on top.
In ancient times Delphi was considered the ‘navel of the earth’ and was home to the Oracle of Delphi and the Temple of Apollo.The location is extraordinary and you can understand what drew the ancient Greeks to this site.
Archaeological investigation in Delphi started in the second half of the 19th century, but it was not until 1892 that a systematic excavation began under the direction of Théophile Homolle and the French Archaeological School of Athens. The site was buried beneath layers and layers of stone and there was a village on top. The village had to be totally uprooted and relocated so that the archaeologists could uncover the ruins.
Archaeological Museum
The museum is definitely worth visiting. It has some amazing statues. We especially liked the one of the dancing women and the one of the charioteer which in its original form would have had also the chariot and horses but only the charioteer had survived.
stand of a basinsphinxsphinxthe sphinx in situbattle of Olympian gods against giantssleeping Erosthe dancersthe charioteer
Delphi Camping
We stayed again at Delphi Camping – a wonderful site with stunning views over the Gulf of Corinth. The campsite is owned by the Kanatas family and they also produce olive oil. This olive oil called ‘Mer des Oliviers de Delphes’ is produced from olives of the olive groves of Amfissa – Delphi. These groves have existed for over 3,000 years being the oldest in Greece . Here the ancient Greeks cultivated olives and produced oil before any other part of Greece did and the Kanatas family have cultivated olives and produced olive oil for hundreds of years. The olive oil is called by a French name in order to honour the French team who discovered the Delphi site and worked on the excavations.
Metsovo is a beautiful town in the Pindos mountains and is often called ‘The Jewel of Epirus’. It is a Vlach town, a people who are historically nomadic shepherds who’ve lived in the region for generations and whose origins are from neighbouring Balkan countries.
It is a village that has managed to maintain its traditional stone architecture, which used to be typical for the mountainous regions of Epirus, a place once famous for its stone masons: many buildings here have the traditional schist stone roofs, rather than the tile ones.
There is a trail going through and around the town called the Ursa trail. Ursa is Vlach for bear. As speakers of french and portuguese will recognise Vlach is a romance language.
Evangelos Averof-Tositsasroof tops
Folk Art Museum
The Metsovo Folk Art Museum is also well worth a visit. It’s is a beautiful stone house which belonged to Evangelos Averof-Tositsas, who was also foreign minister. He bequeathed it to the town. Each room is furnished as it was in the past, with wooden floors,ceilings and furniture, including beautifully carved chests and rocking cradles, and gorgeous, richly coloured woven tapestries on the walls.
Art Gallery
The Averoff Art Gallery was really interesting. It’s on three floors – ground floor and two lower floors. There is a permanent exhibition which displays a selection of 250 paintings, drawings, sculptures and engravings by the foremost Greek artists of the 19th and 20th century with a great variety of landscapes, still life and portraits, including portraits of the town’s main benefactor and his family. There was also a fascinating photography exhibition by Kostas Balafas called “Travels in Metsovo”. The black and white photographs gave a picture of life in Metsovo in the 1960’s and 70’s. Particularly striking was a wall of portraits of older men who had clearly led their lives outdoors. They were all so different from one another, mostly with very wrinkled faces, full of character
Wild Camping
We stayed a couple of nights above Metsovo in the car park at the Ski Centre which has a wonderful spring (N39.78487, E21.15880). Lots of stray/wild dogs which were not aggressive and which looked so sad we ended up giving them some tinned sardines! The first day we went into the town but the second day we went for a walk on the Ursa Trail which we could access directly from the car park. We of course managed to get lost and were ‘rescued’ by an Israeli couple who introduced us to an App called ‘AllTrails’ which I definitely recommend.
