Category: Greece 2019

Hike in Eastern Pelion

We started from our campsite at Papa Nero intending to follow the trail over to Damouchari and then up to Mouresi where we would have lunch. Imagine our surprise on finding that we had reached our lunch goal at 11am. Then we realised that this was only half of the walk and the second part went up to Kissos the other side of the valley and after a quick Google discovered it was the highest village in East Pelion. Never daunted we set off, now doing our ascent in the hotter part of the day … and that’s not all.

I was using a map from Avenza Maps downloaded onto my iPhone which then tracks your progress. Sounds good but the map is a simplified format and the way marked red arrows and dots on rocks and trees only seemed to appear when there were no options. The path went across a large stream, but the stepping stones were submerged. Fortunately neither of us fell in but Valerie did get rather wet feet. Then of course we lost the path. After wandering around following tracks for about an hour we came across the right path again and followed it down to the river crossing. “Oh good a proper bridge” … and then we saw it close up!

But it was a lovely walk with lush vegetation, flowers, ferns, sweet chestnut trees, lovely birdsong and beehives.

By the time we’d had something to eat it was about 4:30 so we decided to get a taxi back. My iPhone thought I’d climbed 187 flights of stairs!!

Makrinitsa

Makrinitsa is a village about 40 minutes further north from Anakasias. There is a folk museum there, and we were told that there is a cafe with paintings by Theofilos on the walls.

However … be advised not to go there in a camper van/ motorhome. The village is high up and located all the way up the hillside, so numerous levels. The road is narrow and very steep with continuous hairpin bends. In addition when you get there is no where to park. So unfortunately although we made it up to the village we couldn’t stop, except to do a rather anxious making 3-point turn.

Artist Theofilos

Went to a little museum in Anakasias just north of Velos in the Pelion to see the work of Theofilos. He was born in 1870 and scraped a living by painting on the walls of houses and shops. He was a ‘naive’ artist painting folk scenes combining myths with ordinary events. Many of his paintings involve the 1821 War of Independence.

The house in the village was owned by Yannis Kontos and Theofilos decorated the upper wing. The paintings are wonderful and if you’re in the Pelion definitely worth a visit. Here are some photos of the house and one of Theofilos in the tradition dress which he used to wear. It was not possible to take any photos of the paintings themselves but you can see them on Pinterest

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/jabou19/folk-painter-theofilos/

Mycenae

Revisted Mycenae after having read Pat Barker’s Silence of the Girls. Felt we now knew more about Agememnon and the site would be more meaningful. It’s an amazing place and I get a real sense of the past from being there. The beehive tombs are extraordinary pieces of architecture and it must have been so exciting to have discovered them.

  • Lion gate
  • Lion Gate Mycenae
  • Grave circle
  • Grave circle
  • Back gate to the citadel
  • Entrance to the beehive tomb of Agamemnon’s wife Clytemnestra
  • Ceiling of beehive tomb of Clytemnestra

The museum contains some good examples of pottery 3000 years old with descriptions of history of the period.

And lastly, we stayed overnight at a camperstop by a cafe just down the road from the site. Very friendly guy running the place. It would have been better if we’d spent less time on breakfast and got to the site earlier, but what a fabulous location

  • Eggs and avo on toast

Hiking the Loussios Gorge and Menalon Trail

Found an amazing gorge and hiking trail in the middle of the Peloponnese. Stayed at a camper stop at Taverna Koustenis, Dimitsana (evidently the birthplace of the Greek struggle for independence against the Ottoman Empire in 1821). Walked the first section of the Menalon Trail 9.5 miles, total ascents of 3,000 feet and visits to three monasteries ( one from 983AD built into the rock face now just ruins, and the other two still active. The monks at the Prodromou monastery provided coffee and loukoumi.

  • Spring flowers on the Menalon Trail
  • Philosophou monastery perched on the cliff
    Philosophou monastery perched on the cliff
  • Prodromou monastery built into the cliff face of the gorge
  • Prodromou monastery
  • Valerie in her wraparound at the monastery (women can’t wear trousers)
  • Front door of Podromou Monastery with bullet holes
  • Prodromou monastery

The Mani

Stayed at the campsite at Stoupa for a week and went on some great walks and a good bike ride. The countryside is fantastic for hiking but you have to watch out for paths on the map that disappear on the ground!

  • Pretty village of Agios Nikolaos
  • Guess who we met on our walk
  • Mountain tea at Kastania
  • Stifado with mushrooms – delicious!
  • Walking back to Kardamyli

Ancient Messini

Stadium at Messini

The site of ancient Messini was the former capital of the area founded in 371BC. It is north west of Kalamata in a beautiful location with a well preserved stadium and amphitheatre. It is not so well known as some of the other sites and had very few people. There is a small museum with several statues. Well worth visiting.

  • Stadium and gymnasium at Messini
  • Statue of Isis Pelagia (protector of sailors)
  • Marble statue of a priestess
  • Amphitheatre at Messini

Ferry Venice to Patras

We travelled on the Anek Superfast ferry which from Venice took a long time – 32 hours. But it was a pleasant trip and as Anek is a Cretean company all the food was from Crete and surprisingly delicious.

The ferry was of course late and didn’t get to Patras until 1am. We’d decided to go to a campsite 30 minutes away rather than stay by the roadside and the man at Camping Kato Alissos couldn’t have been more helpful staying up until 2am to let us in!